Bring in the Chinese New Year with a cup of China tea

26th January 2009

Dunking tea-bags into mugs might be the ultimate in comforting convenience but for special occasions - like Chinese New Year - take time out to brew China tea the traditional way. Alexandra Fullerton celebrates the Year of the Ox with a Chinese brewing ritual and gets the low-down on the most popular blends of China tea around the country.

The tea ritual is "all about taking time out and spending it with your family and friends," says Melissa Choi, MD and founder of Choi Time www.choitime.com. "The routine of preparing the tea, heating the water and washing the leaves is therapeutic with numerous benefits."
 
Before you get started choose the highest-quality tea you can find. It makes sense that the better the blend, the tastier the tea. But even the very best tea can be ruined by bad brewing - you have been warned! Make sure the tea has been stored in an air-tight container so the leaves stay dry - they should turn to dust when you crush them between finger-tips. The method below works particularly well for Oolong teas and, as well as a teapot and cups, you'll need a tray to catch overflowing water as the ceremony can get rather messy!

 

Here's the how-to:

Step 1: Put freshly drawn water on to boil then rinse out your tea pot and cups with hot water to warm them.
Tea tip: Never use previously boiled water as each time it's boiled, water loses oxygen, meaning your cuppa will have a dull taste.
 
Step 2: Fill a teapot with approximately one rounded teaspoon of tea per person, per cup. It's traditional to use chopsticks or a bamboo tea scoop to transport the leaves but a spoon will do.
Tea tip: Make sure you have the right amount of tea. Put in too little and you'll end up with a cup of water. But overfilling the pot with too much tea gives you a bitter-tasting cup. Different teas need different water-to-tea ratios, so check the packet's recommendations.
 
Step 3: Pour the freshly boiled water into the pot 'til it's overflowing. Swirl it round then pour off the water so you're left with soaked leaves in the bottom of the pot.
Tea tip: When you're adding the water, make sure you don't let any bubbles form as these result in scummy foam.
 
Step 4: Fill the pot to the top again with more hot water, then leave to steep.
Tea tip: There are many schools of thought on how long you should brew tea for, but 30 seconds is good starting point. Also, the temperature of the water for this step is crucial. Water that's too cool makes it's impossible to extract the leaves' flavour. Too high and it'll be overbrewed and soupy. Yuk. Green teas are best brewed at 80*C (leave the water for a while after boiling) but Oolongs taste best at 100*C.
 
Step 5: Now, you've got one minute to pour the first cups. Go! White porcelain cups show off tea's true colour
Tea tip: Traditionally the tea should be poured by moving the teapot over the cups in a continual circular motion so each cup tastes the same. After the first cups you should be able to get 4 more infusions from the leaves (add an extra 10 seconds onto the steeping time for each additional brew).
 
If you can make the last cups taste as good as the first you're on your way to being a master brewer! But don't be disheartened if your first attempt isn't perfect. After all the care you can lavish on making the perfect cuppa, tea is a natural product so each batch of leaves will be different.
 

Troubleshooting:

Why is it bitter? This could be because you've chosen a bitter blend, like Pu'erh. You could have used too many leaves or over-brewed.
Why is it watery? Tea should taste rich - not watery and thin. If the tea is on the thin side you probably didn't brew for long enough or used water that was too cool. 
Why does it feel 'rough'? Good teas should always be smooth. As long as you don't overbrew and use water on the cool side of boiling you should be fine.
 
 
If you don't fancy performing your own Chinese tea ritual, check out the China Tea Charts below and let someone else pour for you...

At afternoon-tea Mecca, Claridges, (www.claridges.co.uk) the most popular China teas are:
1: Russian Caravan Tea
Made from a blend of Chinese, Formosa and Darjeeling leaves, it's inspired by historic teas carried from China to Russia by camels.
2: Gunpowder tea
A refreshing green tea from the Formosa region which is made from tight little round petals that look remarkably like lead shot.
3: Pai Mu Tan
AKA White peony. It's a rare high-grade white tea and uses only the smallest buds and youngest leaves, picked early in the season.

Over at The Dorchester, (www.thedorchester.com) these are the cups that customers are currently choosing:
1: Chinese Bai Mei
A rare white tea that has been prettily tied into the shape of a star, with a nectar-y flavour.
2: Lapsang Souchong
Think of China tea and this blend will spring to mind. Lapsang is a black tea with a smoky flavour.
3: Keemun Mao Feng
This black tea is made from large leaves and brews a light cup with a toasty finish.

These are the biggest-selling teas at Betty's of Harrogate, (www.bettysbypost.com):
1: Earl Grey
A classic blend of black China tea, Earl Grey is treated with oil of Bergamont for a subtle, citrusy aroma.
2: Good Luck Green Tea
The Chinese name for this tea is Pi Lo Chun - Spring green snail - as the leaves look like little snails. The tea bushes are grown in between peach and plum trees for a fruity flavour.
3: China Rose Petal
Congou black tea, layered with pink rose petals for a mellow, perfumed tea. Perfect for serving with cakes and pastries.

For more detailed info on Chinese blends click here: Teas From China