Great Western
28th September 2009
Exploring Wales and it's borders? Alex Fullerton advises on the best places to visit for afternoon tea...
While the ancient county of Shropshire witnessed violent border battles in the past it's now the picture of pastoral beauty - and the perfect place to stop off for tea! As well as indulging at The Tea Guild members mentioned below check out tourist hotspots Powis Castle and Offas Dyke and stride through the countryside of the Welsh Marches (Marches is a word derived from the Anglo Saxon word for boundary) before heading over the border to Wales. The tea time treats you'll find in the mystical country often include a uniquely Welsh twist with the inclusion of Bara Brith - the country's homemade tea bread - present on many a menu. Washed down with a pot of tea, what could be more enticing? Cheers! Or 'lloniannau' as they say in Wales...
And if you fancy investigating Gloucestershire, see our recent feature on the top tea places in that county here.
WALES
Cemlyn Tea Shop
Perseverance pays off! In the case of Cemlyn Tea Shop in Harlech, it's something we can all be thankful for... Jan and Geoff Cole, who have owned the thriving tea rooms since 2000, initially discounted their business's current premises. "A local estate agent contacted us about (the) property but we weren't really interested" Jan revealed to Tea.co.uk. "After 4 or 5 telephone calls we decided we would look at it, just to stop him ringing us!" But as fate would have it, the Coles were hooked and bought the property, renovating the old pharmacist's house into the Award of Excellence-winning tea shop it is today. The "tremendous" views from Cemlyn's sun-trap terrace stretch past neighbouring Harlech Castle, over the mountains of North Wales to the sea beyond (and are a big draw for visitors) but it's the welcome each receives that gives Cemlyn it's unique atmosphere. "We try and greet each and every (guest) like an old friend - even if we have never met them before" says Jan. Judging by the comments from satisfied customers - and the high proportion of those that return year after year, this could be the secret of Cemlyn's success!
Partly, perhaps, but the remainder must be due to the outstanding food and tea on offer at Cemlyn. Everything is freshly made on the premises, starting with bread for sandwiches (renames Cemlinis) to scones "and everything in between". The Coles source all their ingredients in the local area and proudly proclaim their quality and eco-credentials in a mission statement gracing each menu.
Ah, the menu. Including savoury lunch options, a range of tasty tea-time treats and a mouth-watering array of loose leaf teas - you'll be spoilt for choice. This year Cemlyn have introduced a Welsh afternoon tea - a scone with jam and cream, a slice of Bara Brith (Welsh tea bread) with butter and a pot of house tea. Jan divulged that it's become the most popular item on the cake menu! Or simply pick a piece of chocolate cake to enjoy with an exotic brew such as Black Spicy Chai, Formosa Oolong and Sencha Ginseng...
Cemlyn Tea Shop, High Street, Harlech, Gwynedd LL46 2YA. 01766 780425. www.cemlynrestaurant.co.uk / www.cemlyntea.co.uk
Badgers Tearooms
A consistent winner of the Tea Guild's prestigious Award of Excellence, Badgers is a homely tea room in the popular seaside resort town of Llandudno. Visitors can combine a cheeky visit to the neighbouring shopping mall with a delicious afternoon tea afterwards. You'll be served by waitresses, affectionately known as Badger's Nippies, dressed in period costume while a mouth-watering array of cakes including swan meringues, dragon eclairs and Bara Brith (all made in Badger's on-site bakery) are there to entice your tastebuds. And if you're curious as to where the name comes from, 'badger' was the nickname of the tea room's first owner - twenty years ago!
The Victoria Centre, Mostyn Street, Llandudno, LL30 2RP. 01492 871 649 / www.badgerstearooms.co.uk
The Old Stables Tea Rooms
As well as managing The Old Stables Tea Rooms, chef / owner Mike Carnell and wife Rachel also run an artisan preserves business which consistently scoop the top prizes at The Great Taste Awards. We're not sure how they combine running the two so seamlessly but we're thrilled they do! Mike admits that it's hard work but the results are "very rewarding".
The Old Stables used to belong to Rachel's aunt before Mike and Rachel took it over and turned it into the Award of Excellence-winning venue it is today. While working with your spouse might be the idea of hell for some, for Mike it's a perk of the job. "Rachel is the brains behind it all and she keeps me focused (plus) I get to see her all the time!" he revealed. The most ordered brew on the menu is the fragrant loose leaf Rose Pouchong while visitors go wild for Mike's "yummy" mango cheesecake and award-winning coffee and walnut sponge cake. If you think that size matters you'll be thrilled with the venue's tea cakes, their giant cakes are the largest in Wales!
After indulging in afternoon tea with Bara Brith, a scone with strawberry jam and clotted cream and your choice of tea from the extensive menu, wander out into the charming town of Hay-on-Wye, a world-famous destination for second-hand book lovers where book stores line the streets.
The Old Stables Tea Rooms, Bear Street, Hay-on-Wye, HR3 5AN. www.chefontherunfoods.co.uk
The Angel Hotel
Abergavenny's Angel Hotel has long been a destination for those in the know. During the 1800s, the Angel was an important coaching inn with the London - Abergavenny journey taking 15 hours while guests from the golden age of Hollywood included Gregory Peck, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton...
Today the restored Georgian hotel offers an elegant venue in which to take an Award of Excellence-winning afternoon. Scones, cakes and pastries are freshly made by in-house baker Sally Lane while scrumptious sandwich fillings include Black Mountain smoked salmon, marinated cucumber and cream cheese and home-cooked ham. Guests can choose from a huge range of loose leaf teas to accompany their food while the tea menu includes Flowering Osmanthus, Silver Needle White Tea and Assam blends... Earl Grey is a popular choice while the topping-selling cakes are creamy custard slices and banoffee tart.
Happily, if the tea-time spread has proved too much for you, the staff will happily box up any remaining cakes for you to take away and enjoy later. What a brilliant idea!
15 Cross Street, Abergavenny, Monmouthshire, NP7 5EN. 01873 857121. www.angelhotelabergavenny.com
SHROPSHIRE
Rocke Cottage Tearooms
One of the Tea Guild's newest members, Rocke Cottage Tearooms is owned by Karin Clarke who has previously spent 27 years working in contract catering. The unique beamed premises of Karin's tea room is served by an equally unique menu, full of quirkly-named afternoon tea treats such as 'Oranges And Lemons Say The Bells of St Clements' (comprising of a slice of lemon drizzle or St Clements cake with Earl or Lady Grey tea) and 'Pat-A-Cake, Pat-A-Cake Baker's Man, Bake Me A Cake As Fast As You Can' (where guests enjoy their choice of a slice of cake, a fresh plain scone with butter and jam and their choice of tea).
Currently Spicy Apple Crunch, Sticky Ginger and American Carrot Cake are proving popular choices while Karin revealed that "English Breakfast, closely followed by Shropshire Blend and Earl Grey" are the most sought-after brews. Autumn will see the introduction of several specials when the menu will be full of orchard fruits, including apples, pears and blackberries - all picked locally or from Karin's own garden!
Shropshire provides visitors with plenty of opportunities to immerse yourself in the border county's history - as does Rocke Cottage itself. Occupying a 400 year old Welsh Long House, at one point the building was a pub while Karin told Tea.co.uk that "a number of people have felt the present of our resident friendly ghost." Spooky! If you're planning an extended visit to the area take a trip to nearby Stokesay Castle where the fortified manor house remains almost unchanged after 750 years, "it's always a favourite" recommends Karin.
Rocke Cottage Tearooms, Abcott, Clungunford, Shropshire SY7 0PX. 01588 660631 / www.rockecottagetearoom.co.uk
Castle Tea Rooms
The great Norman castle dominating Ludlow's skyline is a reminder of the times when Shropshire played witness to many fierce battles between England and Wales. Today Ludlow is a quiet market town, famed for it's foodie credentials (it's home to three Michelin-starred restaurants) while the castle has been transformed into a genteel venue in which to take Award of Excellence-winning afternoon tea. The Castle Tea Rooms' aristocratic connections date back to the 11th century and the tea room currently occupies the site of a Tudor tennis court. Catherine of Aragon and Mary Tudor all resided in the ancient stone building in the past.
If you visit during the Summer months take a seat in the Old English herb garden and admire the splendid views of the castle while being surrounded by delicious scented herbs. Talking of delicious... Roast Herefordshire beef sandwiches with creamed horseradish, Shropshire Blue cheese scones, moist, lightly spiced Shropshire apple and sultana cake are some of the freshly made treats to tempt your taste buds. Mmm...
Castle Tea Room, Castle House, Ludlow Castle, Castle Squa, Ludlow, Shropshire SY8 1AX. 01584 878796. www.ludlowcastle.com
De Grey's
Right in the centre of Ludlow lies De Grey's tea room, neatly tucked away behind the busy bakery that supplies the tea shop's pastries, iced buns, cream cakes and scones. All handmade, the tarts and biscuits perfectly compliment the speciality brews on the tea room's menu while the beamed interior makes for a cosy Autumnal afternoon tea venue. The tea room has been a consistent Award of Excellence winner and this year's anonymous judges praised the "smiling" waitresses. You can be sure of a warm welcome!
De Grey's, 5-6 Broad Street, Ludlow, Shropshire SY8 1NG. 01584 872764. www.degreys.co.uk