Go Green

26th May 2009

Alexandra Fullerton finds out what makes green tea different from it's less colourful cousins.

Green tea's exotic provenance and brightly coloured liquor means that it's looks are rather removed from a classic cuppa. But while green and black teas might seem like different drinks, both teas have more in common that you'd think, starting from the top... The leaves that go into both brews are actually from the same Camellia sinensis plant, but are simply processed differently. Leaves that will ultimately make green tea are heated so the enzymes that react with the air (which turn the leaves brown) are destroyed so the tea keeps it's verdant hue. The scientific term for this means the tea is 'unoxidised'. There are two main methods to do this: Firstly, by steaming - this results in a 'Sencha' tea. Or, alternatively the leaves are heated in a wok to make 'pan-fried' tea. After heating, the leaves are rolled and then dried in hot ovens to remove almost all their water content. Often this is all done by hand resulting in a traditional, artisan process.

Green tea was apparently 'discovered' Shen-nung, a Chinese emperor who ruled in 2737BC. While he was having a picnic some tea leaves floated into a pot of boiling water but Shen-nung drank the brew anyway and loved it's taste.

If you're choosing green tea from a tea room menu or in-store, look out for the following popular varieties:
Gunpowder - the leaves are rolled into lead-shot shaped pellets
Chung Mee - the leaves are shaped like little eyebrows
Dragon Well - a tea with bright green liquor, also called Lung Ching
Matcha - a finely ground green tea from Japan
Gyokuro or Jade Dew - this Japanese tea is grown in shady patches
Sometimes green tea is blended with mint to create an ultra-refreshing Moroccan-inspired cup.

Green teas are best drunk without milk and, when you get a good cup, should taste "lively" according to Edward Eisler from Jing Tea. Edward advises that "the flavour can vary enormously because there are so many green teas to choose from. However, as a general rule, green tea must be sappy and bright with clear and precise presentation of flavours". A bad cup could include defects such as roughness, bitterness, dullness or a burnt taste while the colour of the liquor should be bright - dull yellow shades occur when the tea is stale or has been badly stored.

In recent years the popularity of green teas has soared. Mike Wright, Senior Tea Buyer, Blender & NPD Manager at Twinings agrees, "The first teas ever imported were all green teas but over the last twenty years it's been rediscovered". The resurgence is, in part, due to the Western world's appropriation of all things Eastern (who would have guessed that Sainsbury's would be selling sushi?) but Mike also believes that green tea has become more popular as tea's health-giving properties have been brought to light. "Antioxidant links to green tea and it's health connotations have boosted sales." Gradually people have become more accustomed to the taste too, "People now appreciate all the different types of tea available" Mike reveals.

Green tea's current popularity is also perhaps partly due to celebrity endorsement... Oprah Winfrey, Courtney Cox and Emily Blunt have all been revealed as fans of the brew's health-giving properties as the way in which the tea is processed means nearly all of the antioxidants present in the leaves are preserved. Some studies have suggested that drinking green tea could slow down cancer growth, may guard your arteries against a build-up of cholesterol, potentially delay the aging process, possibly protect your teeth from decay and may even aid weight loss - all due to the high antioxidant levels which 'mop up' the free radicals which can cause damage to your body.

So, now you know the reasons why you should drink more green tea, how should you do it? Edward Eisler reveals the best way to brew green tea at home: "Use a small teapot which holds only enough water for the cups it will fill. This ensures that no tea is left ‘stewing’ in the pot. Use water at no more that 80 degrees - either use a temperature controlled kettle or boil the water then let it sit for 5-10 minutes". Steeping green tea in water that's too hot could result in a bitter brew. Edward also advises that you should "always use filtered water, unless you live in a soft water area" as it makes a big difference to the final cup. The way you serve fine green teas also has an effect on the taste. Edward likens it to wine, commenting that "you’d be unlikely to choose to drink Chateau Margaux ‘62 from a paper cup" and goes on to recommend that "the smaller the teapot the better, as the flavour is more concentrated".

It looks like green tea is here to stay and, now you know the facts, here's to enjoying it properly!

Pictures of teapot and leaves in hand courtesy of Jing Tea's blog.