Eastern Promise
24th August 2009
In a continuing series on the best tearooms around the regions, Alex Fullerton lets the spotlight fall on the East Anglian counties of Essex, Suffolk and Cambridgeshire.
Peacocks
As you approach the ancient city of Ely across flat Fenland, the cathedral (nicknamed The Queen of The Fens) rises out of the ground like a giant ship in sail. From the foundation of an abbey in 670AD by St Ethelreda, Ely has been attracting visitors ever since. As well as the awesome cathedral and charming streets to wander, the town is also home to Peacocks, Winner of The Tea Guild's prestigious Top Tea Place award in 2007.
As befits the Award of Excellence-winning establishment you'll find immaculate service, a selection of mouth-watering home-made cakes (according to joint owner George Peacock, carrot cake and gooey chocolate brownies are "firm favourites") and a huge choice of teas from around the world. A recent addition to the tea menu is Billy Tea - flavoured with eucalyptus and grown in Queensland, Australia. While other venues may serve herbal tisanes from far-flung countries (which don't contain any actual 'tea') this is the real deal. "I reckon we are the only place anywhere offering teas from five continents" comments George. "We also have tea grown in Cornwall, Brazil and South Africa among our 66 varieties."
Currently, the tea of the moment seems to be Blue Lady Grapefruit tea ("a tasty variation on Earl Grey") while Norfolk Lavender Tea "goes down well on a hot Summer day in the garden, especially with a scone with clotted ceam and apricot jam." Customers wishing for a behind the scenes glimpse of the life of this busy tearoom should sit at the kitchen table. Similar to the Chefs' Tables at swish London restaurants, customers can now take tea in the kitchen, "surrounded by (co-owner) Rachel Lemkov's collections of bread knives, enamelled jars and kitchenalia."
Once you've had your fill of tea and cake there is plenty to do in Ely and the cathedral is "a must". George advises that, "the best way for those with the stamina is to take the tour up around the Octagon and the roof, with stunning views of both the interior, the town and the Fens beyond."
Rachel and George also recommend a boat trip on the Liberty Belle, an "old-fashioned wooden launch with a cabin for cover in case of rain". With a gentle running commentary and the company of owner Steve and his black labrador it's "a lovely way to spend half an hour and see some wildlife and open country." The Boat leaves from the Quayside, just by Peacocks. Water-lovers would also do well to follow George's advice to "find a quiet, clear stretch of river, like the River Lark at Isleham, for a cooling swim surrounded by fluttering damsel-flies." Bliss. "If we ever have a proper winter again there is nothing better than an afternoon's skating with friends out on the flooded fens, fortified with something hot and strong," he suggests. The perfect excuse for another cup of tea from Peacocks, then?
65 Waterside, Ely, Cambridgeshire CB7 4AU. 01353 661 100. www.peacockstearoom.co.uk
By Jove! Tearooms
One of the newest members accepted into The Tea Guild, By Jove! Tearooms has only been open for twelve weeks but it already looks set to be a must visit for tea fans and anyone in the area... The tea room's focus, according to owners Tania and Melvin Baker, includes "generous slices of cake" with Imperial Fruit Cake the most popular - the recipe dates back four generations in Tania's Irish family! To go with your cake we recommend a pot of By Jove! Blend tea, "a secret blend of Ceylon for flavour, Assam for strength and Kenyan leaves for colour." Tania revealed that the recipe is "one of our most prized possessions."
Situated in a Grade II listed 18th century school building, By Jove! overlooks St Mary's Church (a destination for architecture fans who will be impressed by it's perpendicular style and soaring octagonal tower) and the tea room is decorated with quirky Union Jack bunting and quaint British vintage pieces. If you're sitting inside, a lazily ticking Grandfather clock adds to By Jove's! cosy charm but while the weather is warm take a seat outside in the tea rooms' rambling rose garden.
Close to the nearby town of Newmarket, By Jove's! owners recommend a visit to the world famous horse races there. Burwell is also a great base for nature lovers who can "walk the extensive river and green routes of the National Trust's Wicken Fen." Slightly further afield lies Cambridge, "Take a tour of the oldest and most widley acclaimed scholars colleges in the world" advises Tanya and Melvin. Or closer to home you could simply stroll up Burwell's wide high street, which is dotted with elegant white and pink-painted Georgian and Victorian homes...
By Jove! Tearooms, The Old School, 30a High Street, Burwell, Cambridgeshire, CB25 0HD. 01638 602086. www.byjovetearooms.co.uk
Swan at Lavenham
Visiting the Mediaeval wool town of Lavenham is like stepping back in time - even the telegraph lines are hidden underground to preserve the character of the town! With more than 300 listed buildings it's certainly an ideal destination for history buffs - and the excellent afternoon tea ensures that tassophiles are drawn to Lavenham's Swan Hotel too...
John Morrell, the hotel's Food and Beverage Manager revealed that there had been a building on the site since the early 1400s, and it has played an important part in the town's history ever since. "Although it has been an inn for many years it flourished from 1830 onwards and at one stage had stabling for 50 horses. During the Second World War American servicemen used the Swan as a drinking place and many of them left badges and signatures on the walls of the old bar." In more recent times supermodel Claudia Schiffer stayed at the beamed hotel before her wedding.
If you're stopping by for afternoon tea, the Swan Blend Tea, blended exclusively for the hotel from single estate Assam tea is the most popular on the menu. We recommend ordering the full afternoon tea with finger sandwiches, warm fruit scones and fresh pastries - it's "a meal in itself" according to John!
The Swan, High Street, Lavenham, Suffolk, CO10 9QA. 01787 247 477. www.theswanatlavenham.co.uk
Tea on the Green
The Essex village of Danbury is hidden in a pretty part of the county often overlooked by tourists. But with 40 teas on the menu, and in an area rich with history, it's an ideal spot for afternoon tea. Having scooped an Award of Excellence every year since 2004, you're likely to be surrounded by fans on a return visit! The candyfloss pink-painted building overlooks the idyllic village green but drive on a few miles to visit the buzzing market town of Maldon or walk through Danbury Park and immerse yourself in the spectacular woods and rolling parkland there.
3 Eves Corner, Danbury, Essex, CM3 4QF. 01245 226 616.
River Tea Rooms
Another new member to join The Tea Guild this Summer is the River Tea Rooms in the pretty market town of St Ives. Owner Suzy Dell reveals that the tearooms have "a following of regular customers who come in for China Rose Petal tea." There is also a fan club of loyal customers who pay a weekly visit to eat cake-maker Lucy Brinkman's coffee and walnut cake. But as well as the regulars, River Tea Rooms (affectionately nicknamed RTR) also plays host to visitors from all over the world.
St Ives is an ideal spot to relax in and RTR is situated by the River Ouse. This year the tearooms have joined forces with the Electric River Boat company and groups of visitors can now book a simultaneous river trip and cream tea. Perfect! If you're planning a trip to the town next month, RTR is taking part in National Cupcake week (from 14th September) when cupcake creator Lydia will be baking a variety of treats. "We will also be holding our 3rd Macmillan Coffee Morning on Friday 25th September and will be organising a number of fund-raising activities," Suzy revealed. We're sure the RTR team won't be offended if you order tea instead of the black stuff though!
While it would be tempting to spend all your time in St Ives at River Tea Rooms, head out and experience all the local area has to offer. "Uniquely there is a tiny chapel built within the bridge and visitors can peek inside by borrowing the key from the town's Norris Museum" advises Suzy.
River Tea Rooms, 1 & 2 Manor Mews, Bridge Street, St Ives, Cambridgeshire, PE27 5UW. 01480 464 921. www.rivertearooms.co.uk
Flying Fifteens
"It's been an exciting year for Flying Fifteens" revealed the tea room's owner Diana Knight as an avalanche of local accolades have been showered on the venue. But most relevant to fans heading off on a tea tour of the UK is the fact that Flying Fifteen's have won The Tea Guild's Award of Excellence for the past seven years! Is it a record?! Flying Fifteens is famous for the "jolly" welcome with which they greet guests as well as for their terrific selection of onderful teas and food, including their legendary strawberry meringues. Diana advises that visitors to the most Easterly point of the UK simply "enjoy the seafront." Indeed the sandy blue flag beach is a brilliant place to spend the day, although the more adventurous may plan a trip to theme park Pleasurewood Hills, the Norfolk Broads or the Wildlife and Rare Breeds Park at Kessingland.
If you're curious as to where the name came from... Flying Fifteens takes it's moniker from a 15ft long keel boat.
19a The Esplanade, Lowestoft, Suffolk, NR33 0QG. 01502 581188.
Image credits:
Lowestoft Beach: flickr.com
Ely Cathedral: www.st-augustines-web.com
Danbury Woods by Annette Hagger: Redbubble.com